Climbing in Mexico



  • Mexico is loaded with climbing and Mexico has many good climbers. The emphasis is on sport climbing, but some fine traditional areas exist. I've climbed in a number of places in Mexico, but currently frequent an area called El Escalon near Guadalajara in Jalisco.

    El Escalon is columnar basalt, and the climbing is mostly cracks with edges and pockets here and there. The area was first developed in the 1980's, but was pretty much abandoned for many years before a newer generation of trad climbers took over. Acopa shoes were, and are again, made in Guadalajara, and John Bachar and other US climbers visited El Escalon. A famous poster from bitd showed Bachar on the splitter Dedos de Acero. First led by German Wing, Bachar said he barely did Dedos on his first try. Other US climbers have been here as well.

    While hundreds of Jalisco climbers focus on sport climbing at Ixcatan, El Cuajo, or El Diente, a small group of dedicated trad climbers has this gem of an area to itself. Since 2016 Hector Zermeño, Pako Osman Gonzales, Martha Nuñez Garcia and I have established over 30 high quality new pitches.

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  • that looks really good! I take it you live in Mexico?



  • Is it mostly one-pitch climbs? Hard to tell for sure from the photos, but it doesn't look like some of the big cliffs/walls I've seen photos of in Mexico.



  • Most routes are one pitch, but there a few good two pitch ones as well. If you find yourself in Jalisco you can find more to do than visit Guadalajara and Tequila.



  • @Scole Thanks for posting these up, Scott. Any chance you can upload some higher resolution versions? RPU is fairly liberal w.r.t. image size. 📷 🙂 👍



  • @toby It keeps shutting me down, even with 2 mb



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  • @Scole In addition to the 2M per image there is also a 12M per post limit. Hence if you are uploading several fairly high resolution shots in a single post you may be blocked. Apologies for the frustration. These limits are necessary to mitigate denial of service attacks. It is unfortunate that some people's children find amusement in horking things up for the majority.



  • dave yerian sighting!



  • The last 2 images are higher resolution.



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  • @Scole Nice!

    Is that a cacti growing out of the crack three o'clock from the climber's knee on the shot immediately above? I am thinking I am seeing spines? Mayhaps cleaning new routes in Mexico is a bit extra sporty, eh?



  • There are cacti around, but you rarely use them for holds. Actually Joshua Tree has a lot more spines. The wide crack above was unclimbed before I did it. Working man's 5.11 and 5 stars "Siete Pecados Capitales" (7 deadly sins)


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