The end of Yosemite?



  • Any of you who read any other climbing forum than this one are now aware that a new regulatory regime has been imposed on climbers in Yosemite. The predictable response on all those forums has been "Oh my god! They are regulating climbing in Yosemite! This is the end of climbing!!!!"

    OMG!!! These new regs mean I won't get the 11,387th ascent of the Nose!!! Arghhh!! Climbing is doomed!!!!

    Fuck that. Yosemite hasn't been Yosemite for decades.

    If the guys that made Yosemite the center of the climbing universe so many decades ago were young climbers today they wouldn't go anywhere near that place.



  • David? I think the beginning of the end for Yosemite, was when President Trump sold the name of the park to a large American corporation a few years back. However, he did not follow through on his idea to rename other American landmarks for corporate donations to the Republicans for Trump fund.

    Caterpillar National Park.jpg

    We are spared Denali being renamed "Big Mac" Yellowstone renamed Krispy Kreme Yum park, & The Grand Canyon renamed Joe's Sewage Pumping.



  • it will be just like the teteons.. You can still play but you have to follow the rules..



  • @David-Harris said in The end of Yosemite?:

    If the guys that made Yosemite the center of the climbing universe so many decades ago were young climbers today they wouldn't go anywhere near that place.

    Hell, I doubt many of them would even BE climbers today. They would instead find other pursuits - ones that had not sold their soul to commercial exploitation decades ago. Indeed, I have talked w a few old dirtbags from back in the day of similar opinion.

    When we said "we live outside" we did not only mean outdoors. More that we lived "outside" of society, their norms, expectations, etc. Climbing was the embodiment of "counter culture". Similarly, references to "weekenders" was more oft than not pronounced "weak-enders", uttered with a very soft "w" as an expression of our disdain for a certain affluent, yuppie, entitlement type that thought their expensive status symbols actually counted for anything in our world.

    But hey, that's progress. I am very grateful I got to experience and live in "The Real".



  • @NickG Exactly. Being on El Cap along with a hundred other climbers, or lining up for routes anywhere else in Yosemite, is a long, long way from adventure in the sense that early Yosemite climbers understood it, but it is still an experience available to those willing to follow the rules.

    And, if following rules isn't your thing as a climber, there is no shortage of places free from Big Brother's oversight. Even in the climbed-out US you can still get away from the crowds if you want to. It won't be same kind of adventure climbing once offered, but it can still be rewarding.

    But if you are willing to travel outside the US border, the possibilities multiply exponentially. And you don't have to travel thousands of miles. The monster below, which is substantially bigger than El Cap, is less than 35 miles from my house. It has only been climbed once (many years ago, solo, by a non-technical route).

    Of course it will take 2 days to travel those 35 miles, and there will be no Camp Four in the valley below it. And no bars and restaurants. No guidebooks or gear lists. Or rescue. Just you and the beast.

    So, to those who whine about regulation in one of the most popular national parks in the world, I say either accept the new rules and enjoy your visit to Yosemite, or, if you object to rules, suck it up and head for adventureland.

    Castle of stone.jpg



  • @toby said in The end of Yosemite?:

    Hell, I doubt many of them would even BE climbers today.

    That is a thought I have found myself with more and more frequently lately. As in: if I were the teenager today that I was almost 60 years ago, what would I do to escape a world I don't fit into?

    I have no idea. Climbing today -- for most people -- is about as adventurous as bowling was back then. Something you do with your school friends on the days between yoga classes.

    Mountain biking? Hmmm... Maybe a generation behind climbing on the thumb-your-nose-at-society scale, but still pretty much mainstream now.

    Whitewater? Maybe. It's what took me out of my mind-numbing teenage existence, so it's hardly new, but it doesn't seem to have been dumbed down as climbing has been.

    Don't know.



  • @David-Harris The last time I actually spoke with Largo he was into backcountry/mountain unicycling. Now that is what I call a thinking outside of the box pursuit of a quad workout from hell. Go figure.



  • That looks amazing! here in the north east there is a bunch of really wild stuff 7 to 10hrs north of montreal. the Quebiquas. SP? prefer the massivly crowded daks which are now adopting more rules to control crowds. With the border closed I am seeing a few FB posts from up there but certainly when the border opens up again the convenience of Nothern NH, VT and NY will win out again... I only know a very few folks from the North eastern US that have been up there to climb.



  • @NickG Some of my old Montreal climbing friends would travel to the Torngat Mountains along the coast of Labrador. Some fairly big stuff in there -- not in terms of absolute elevation, but pretty alpine and wild. It that what you were thinking of?

    There are also some cliffs at Cap Trinité, but that's northeast, rather than north. Some 6-to-10 pitch routes there I think.

    (and the spelling is Quebecois)



  • they have tons of stuff. it's all in french but the Haut gorge comes to mind. sept isles, some big stuff farther west. newfoundland is huge as well.


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