Lake Willoughby, VT



  • The eagle sails again this time with FA packs strapped in.
    IMG_5590.jpg



  • scouted this 4th of july weekend.
    NKG_5658.jpg

    this was before we had the eagle repaired and it was the catalyst that got us to fix hat old canoe. the aproach was brutal and I am still suffering horribly from poison Ivy as a result. Isa declared it too loose for climbing but I saw a stunning line... Oh well...



  • @NickG said in New routing:

    the aproach was brutal and I am still suffering horribly from poison Ivy as a result. Isa declared it too loose for climbing

    It's strange that so few people understand that much of new routing is just what you describe -- unpleasant, difficult, dangerous and, ultimately, disappointing.

    Most climbers think new routes come from guidebooks, and even those who have a bit of a clue mostly think that putting up a new climb is a straightforward combination of climbing moves with the occasional stop to put in a bolt.



  • And then they get all pissy about how you did it...



  • @NickG said in New routing:

    And then they get all pissy about how you did it...

    Not to mention changing names, adding bolts, etc. My, oh my, how climbing has changed for the "incredibly shrinking balls disease" infected walking on eggshells crowd. Bitd climbers were hard wo/men. You might get hurt. You might die. No guarantees. All part of the adventure. Modern days? PAB's are rule rather than exception?

    It is kind of bittersweet in that I've had conversations w/a few prolific old timers who opine that if things had been then as they are now they'd probably never gotten into climbing in the first place. An independent, intrinsically motivated pursuit of a passion for moving over stone, counter culture way of life, seems to have been replaced by a "sport" promoted by those whom would profit financially, one way or another. Yet had these same folks NOT gotten into climbing many, many routes would not exist and the "sport" would maybe not have been. Oh, the irony. I actually feel sorry for these folks - they seem to have missed the boat w.r.t. some of the BEST aspects of climbing. And ruining the crags w/the presence of their unwashed masses in the process. Yet...w/o these folks... preserving stuff in @David-Harris 's backyard would be untenable.



  • @toby said in New routing:

    It is kind of bittersweet in that I've had conversations w/a few prolific old timers who opine that if things had been then as they are now they'd probably never gotten into climbing in the first place. An independent, intrinsically motivated pursuit of a passion for moving over stone, counter culture way of life, seems to have been replaced by a "sport" promoted by those whom would profit financially, one way or another.

    Yes. And no.

    First things first: I have often had the same thought -- that if I were, today, the same age I was when I started climbing, I probably wouldn't even consider it. Parkour maybe? Don't know. But yes, the "sport" aspect is a turn-off. (And that is even hitting parkour, so I don't know what matches our climbing today. There must be something.)

    But, regarding your thought about the dumbing-down of real climbing being the result of promotion by profit-seekers, I'm not so sure. Yes, Black Diamond and Arc'teryx and Petzl etc have to keep their eyes on the bottom line if they want to stay in business, but I don't think they, or any of the other big outfits, have any ulterior motives. Arc'teryx, for example, has sent some of its sponsored climbers up to our beyond-remote part of the world to do some climbing on new trad routes, and they will leverage the resulting videos to push for ecologically sane logging as well as for the sale of more of their overpriced clothing.

    No, I think the dumbing-down -- or whatever you want to call it -- of climbing is just a normal result of being human. Climbing gyms became the new cool workout, and...

    But, for anyone who wants to see what is out at the edge, remote mountains and rock walls are still there.



  • its all still there if you look for it.



  • Finally my July 4th poison ivy healed and the stars aligned so we could get back to work on our project. The resurected Gruman Eagle served us well again.
    IMG_5753.jpg
    Saturday was a long one for me. I finished P1 and got a 3rd of the way up P2. ran out of battery in a rather exciting spot. So dehydrated by the end of the day that I drank some lake water when I got off the cliff. Got sick sat night and finally threw up @4am... actually slept in after that and felt semi functional sunday. It was muggy and sticky but no full sun on sunday. Isa sent P1 first thing. yes!! the Eye at the start of the climb.

    IMG_5769.jpg
    P1 is about 140ft and mostly fun slab with a stupid hard section of about 12 or 15ft that I was afraid would not go.... Isa called it 10a.... Whatever.. maybe someday I will be able to do it clean.. naturally the butt shots make it look flat vegatated and short but it really is much better than it looks. P1 crux.
    IMG_5760.jpg
    P2 is about 160ft. I did break it in to two pitches on the FA as I was out of pins, had just run it out to a good dish and then used my second to last bolt so I brought Isa up to have a look at the finish. I was able to finish the climb on small and micro gear and used my last bolt for top belay. Took this shot of Isa at belay from half way up P3 though when we reclimbed it to free P2 we combined P2and3.
    IMG_5761.jpg
    That long 2nd pitch has some hard 10 about 30ft up then heady slab finishing up interesting grooves and corners with micro cams and stoppers to a good ledge just shy of the woods and a single bolt anchor. We will go back next week to fix the belays and perhaps add a belay station so that it can be done with a single 70m rope?? All told I drilled 18? bolts on lead counting belays. heading home after the deed was done.
    IMG_5804.jpg
    The Eye Of Hor 10+ 300ft.



  • back at it again this weekend.

    IMG_5816.jpg

    We climbed Eye of Hor again fixing up the top anchors etc. I got a better feel of it. I was completely thrashed last weekend from cleaning and bolting on lead. The climb was dusty as heck. A good hard rain had cleaned our debris nicly and we cruised up Eye Of Hor and downgraded it 😉

    Eye Of Hor 5.10b? 300ft mixed. P1. starting at the crack just right of the eye on the right side of the big cave. Climb through the left rising crack just right of the eye. Follow bolts straight up really cool ribs and dikes to overlap, thin moves through the overlap (Crux)to stance, move left 15ft through very small right facing corner and thin thin slab to bolts up a beautiful moderate water groove. Climb groove, bolts to two bolt belay in brushy alcove. 10b.? 140ft.
    P2. Easy ground 20ft to the top of a large solid but detached flake and stance. Climb up dark bolted prow on nice nobs 10a? moving right to a groove and bolt, 10ft of thin slab to grassy shelf, past pins to easy slab. Run out easy straight up to a dish with a bolt . Straight up through a right facing V groove to a thin flake and a mantle on to a spacious ledge with 2 bolt anchor. 160ft 10a. Light rack to Green.75 + the #3 Camalot, no red or gold. ,micro gear, long slings. Bolt hangers painted Gray.

    FA Nick Goldsmith and Isa Oehry FFA Isa Oehry and Nick Goldsmith 8-2020

    Of course we then started work on the next line 🙂 Ran out of bolts, time and energy but back again Sunday .

    IMG_5850.jpg

    IMG_5826.jpg

    we equipped two excelent pitches. Isa led the 1st 10a? pitch about 32m

    IMG_5868.jpg

    and I led a very sustained 33m 10b pitch. Probobly do the last pitch 35?m or so to the top on lead as its the only practical way to get up there. Super stoked about this line!

    IMG_5876.jpg

    IMG_5886.jpg



  • @NickG Damn! Way to get after it.



  • this is a shot a friend took from the water.
    117960886_739611763437688_2172812353379282637_n.jpg



  • @NickG Cor fookin' 'ell mate, that looks incredible. Where is it? And how do you get there? (Not that I'm likely to ever be in New England, but still...}



  • its right here 🙂

    IMG_3943.jpg

    untitled6.jpg

    right over Isa's shoulder.



  • Lac Willoughby VT



  • @NickG Is Lake Willoughby a well-known area? I think I have heard of it. But from your pictures it looks like you and Isa are the first ones there.



  • this is a huge ice climbing area with most of the activity on the side of the lake where Isa is hanging in the last pic. The climbs on the west side of the lake (where we have been developing) are rarely done. Longer approach and mostly not as steep. There are a few bold very rarely done rock climbs over there. The wall that we are working on had one 5.11c listed in the guide. We bought the rackup (he would have given it to me) and there was still only the one climb in the updated rackup. we paddle over there and the main part of the cliff to our left in the big photo had 3 lines on it. Guidbook author was sitting on secrete project of one of our friends hideing it from us 😉 after we all fessed up to what we knew its' all good and fun and games in the neighborhood. At the moment that wall has 5 climbs counting ours one of which is unfinished. Ira's climbs are only 1st pitches and hopefully he will get them finished soon. It might get some traffic with decently protected climbs? canoe approach mandatory.



  • Lots of rumors about this cliff. steep thin hard slab climbing??? but very little printed material? Its about an hour and a half from our places. I am thinking it needs a serious look after we finish Soul Whisperer.

    IMG_6015.jpg
    IMG_6007.jpg



  • @NickG looks a bit like Royal Arches. Looking forward to your report whenever that may be.



  • @Alfalfa said in New Routing:

    Looking forward to your report whenever that may be.

    Yeah, where is it? Or is it still secret?



  • New Hampshire. rumored to have 5.11 runout slab climbs on it so so one goes there? not in the guide book? approach does not look terrible? the NH crew got busted out there in early 2000's ? they had a gear stash with a camera in it that had photos of them and their pot plants... Feds also found the plants...


Log in to reply