Lake Willoughby, VT
Isa got the FA on Sat.. Beuna Vista 5.9
Named after the view from the top..
Cleaned up some of the trash hunters threw over the edge and foraged dinner..
NickG last edited by NickG
That looks pretty cool Ray. I think Donini mentioned Salmon river to us at your dinner party in 2016. Didn't mention the rattlers though.. Our new find is a total heap. I did a ton of trundling Sunday.
Its not the pacific NW but it's still pretty bad in the NE..
rapped in from the top and made this mess on the bottom 20ft getting to the cleaner rock . My shoulder hurt just watching Isa work on the roof we have an anchor over.. I passed on that project for the moment and followed Isa up the 5.9 we established last week.
did I mention it was freaking Cold! I traversed over and got an anchor in on top of what was supposed to be the perfect 5.7 or 8 warm up I have been looking for.... It turned out to be 10 something and lots of loose crap I had to trundle....
the new sub compact brushless 18v Makita weighs about half of my 36v Bosch My birthday present to myself. Seems to work well enough. It started spitting snow but my shutter speed was too slow to catch the ice pellets.
Isa packed out some more garbage and ramps.
Fresh change of clothes and hot mocha in the van were quite satisfying after those shenanigans.
I finally got around to leading this one. its getting cleaner and easier some kind of easy 9???
we carried out the last load of crap from the base of the cliff. the logging road that goes in here is gated now. assuming it was open in the 70s and 80s..
toby last edited by
@NickG Skeeters are hungry in your neck of the woods, eh? When are they not? Head nets are damned good to have in the bug out bag.
Skeeters and black flies for about a month then we should be ok without bug nets unless the deer flies are really bad.
good weekend of small rock, lots of vegetation and FA's.
me on the FA of Vista Grande . 8+???
There really is a great view of the white mountains from the top of this crag.
then Isa did a variation link between Buena Vista and Vista Grande that avoids dealing with the overhang.
so we called it Vista de Pollo . the sub compact ultra light rotary hammer works well. Certainly not as fast as my 36v bosch but much, much lighter.
The eagle sails again this time with FA packs strapped in.
scouted this 4th of july weekend.
this was before we had the eagle repaired and it was the catalyst that got us to fix hat old canoe. the aproach was brutal and I am still suffering horribly from poison Ivy as a result. Isa declared it too loose for climbing but I saw a stunning line... Oh well...
the aproach was brutal and I am still suffering horribly from poison Ivy as a result. Isa declared it too loose for climbing
It's strange that so few people understand that much of new routing is just what you describe -- unpleasant, difficult, dangerous and, ultimately, disappointing.
Most climbers think new routes come from guidebooks, and even those who have a bit of a clue mostly think that putting up a new climb is a straightforward combination of climbing moves with the occasional stop to put in a bolt.
And then they get all pissy about how you did it...
toby last edited by toby
And then they get all pissy about how you did it...
Not to mention changing names, adding bolts, etc. My, oh my, how climbing has changed for the "incredibly shrinking balls disease" infected walking on eggshells crowd. Bitd climbers were hard wo/men. You might get hurt. You might die. No guarantees. All part of the adventure. Modern days? PAB's are rule rather than exception?
It is kind of bittersweet in that I've had conversations w/a few prolific old timers who opine that if things had been then as they are now they'd probably never gotten into climbing in the first place. An independent, intrinsically motivated pursuit of a passion for moving over stone, counter culture way of life, seems to have been replaced by a "sport" promoted by those whom would profit financially, one way or another. Yet had these same folks NOT gotten into climbing many, many routes would not exist and the "sport" would maybe not have been. Oh, the irony. I actually feel sorry for these folks - they seem to have missed the boat w.r.t. some of the BEST aspects of climbing. And ruining the crags w/the presence of their unwashed masses in the process. Yet...w/o these folks... preserving stuff in @David-Harris 's backyard would be untenable.
It is kind of bittersweet in that I've had conversations w/a few prolific old timers who opine that if things had been then as they are now they'd probably never gotten into climbing in the first place. An independent, intrinsically motivated pursuit of a passion for moving over stone, counter culture way of life, seems to have been replaced by a "sport" promoted by those whom would profit financially, one way or another.
Yes. And no.
First things first: I have often had the same thought -- that if I were, today, the same age I was when I started climbing, I probably wouldn't even consider it. Parkour maybe? Don't know. But yes, the "sport" aspect is a turn-off. (And that is even hitting parkour, so I don't know what matches our climbing today. There must be something.)
But, regarding your thought about the dumbing-down of real climbing being the result of promotion by profit-seekers, I'm not so sure. Yes, Black Diamond and Arc'teryx and Petzl etc have to keep their eyes on the bottom line if they want to stay in business, but I don't think they, or any of the other big outfits, have any ulterior motives. Arc'teryx, for example, has sent some of its sponsored climbers up to our beyond-remote part of the world to do some climbing on new trad routes, and they will leverage the resulting videos to push for ecologically sane logging as well as for the sale of more of their overpriced clothing.
No, I think the dumbing-down -- or whatever you want to call it -- of climbing is just a normal result of being human. Climbing gyms became the new cool workout, and...
But, for anyone who wants to see what is out at the edge, remote mountains and rock walls are still there.
its all still there if you look for it.
NickG last edited by NickG
Finally my July 4th poison ivy healed and the stars aligned so we could get back to work on our project. The resurected Gruman Eagle served us well again.
Saturday was a long one for me. I finished P1 and got a 3rd of the way up P2. ran out of battery in a rather exciting spot. So dehydrated by the end of the day that I drank some lake water when I got off the cliff. Got sick sat night and finally threw up @4am... actually slept in after that and felt semi functional sunday. It was muggy and sticky but no full sun on sunday. Isa sent P1 first thing. yes!! the Eye at the start of the climb.
P1 is about 140ft and mostly fun slab with a stupid hard section of about 12 or 15ft that I was afraid would not go.... Isa called it 10a.... Whatever.. maybe someday I will be able to do it clean.. naturally the butt shots make it look flat vegatated and short but it really is much better than it looks. P1 crux.
P2 is about 160ft. I did break it in to two pitches on the FA as I was out of pins, had just run it out to a good dish and then used my second to last bolt so I brought Isa up to have a look at the finish. I was able to finish the climb on small and micro gear and used my last bolt for top belay. Took this shot of Isa at belay from half way up P3 though when we reclimbed it to free P2 we combined P2and3.
That long 2nd pitch has some hard 10 about 30ft up then heady slab finishing up interesting grooves and corners with micro cams and stoppers to a good ledge just shy of the woods and a single bolt anchor. We will go back next week to fix the belays and perhaps add a belay station so that it can be done with a single 70m rope?? All told I drilled 18? bolts on lead counting belays. heading home after the deed was done.
The Eye Of Hor 10+ 300ft.
back at it again this weekend.
We climbed Eye of Hor again fixing up the top anchors etc. I got a better feel of it. I was completely thrashed last weekend from cleaning and bolting on lead. The climb was dusty as heck. A good hard rain had cleaned our debris nicly and we cruised up Eye Of Hor and downgraded it
Eye Of Hor 5.10b? 300ft mixed. P1. starting at the crack just right of the eye on the right side of the big cave. Climb through the left rising crack just right of the eye. Follow bolts straight up really cool ribs and dikes to overlap, thin moves through the overlap (Crux)to stance, move left 15ft through very small right facing corner and thin thin slab to bolts up a beautiful moderate water groove. Climb groove, bolts to two bolt belay in brushy alcove. 10b.? 140ft.
P2. Easy ground 20ft to the top of a large solid but detached flake and stance. Climb up dark bolted prow on nice nobs 10a? moving right to a groove and bolt, 10ft of thin slab to grassy shelf, past pins to easy slab. Run out easy straight up to a dish with a bolt . Straight up through a right facing V groove to a thin flake and a mantle on to a spacious ledge with 2 bolt anchor. 160ft 10a. Light rack to Green.75 + the #3 Camalot, no red or gold. ,micro gear, long slings. Bolt hangers painted Gray.
FA Nick Goldsmith and Isa Oehry FFA Isa Oehry and Nick Goldsmith 8-2020
Of course we then started work on the next line Ran out of bolts, time and energy but back again Sunday .
we equipped two excelent pitches. Isa led the 1st 10a? pitch about 32m
and I led a very sustained 33m 10b pitch. Probobly do the last pitch 35?m or so to the top on lead as its the only practical way to get up there. Super stoked about this line!
@NickG Damn! Way to get after it.
this is a shot a friend took from the water.
@NickG Cor fookin' 'ell mate, that looks incredible. Where is it? And how do you get there? (Not that I'm likely to ever be in New England, but still...}
its right here
right over Isa's shoulder.