Powell River Area Climbing



  • Holy cow, David Harris! I just watched this video about the backcountry up there, and the issues surrounding logging and tourism and stuff...but was blown away by the amount of rock!

    On the Verge

    Wowzer!!

    Some of the routes in this video are breathtaking, but the surrounding environs would no doubt make any route similarly breathtaking. I'm liking where you moved to, even if I miss you guys being here in Seattle!

    (Also...I want me one of them Delicas with the 4X4 and steering wheel on the right. They don't sell them in the U.S., but I've always seen plenty of them in Squamish, and from visiting Canadians here in Seattle.)



  • Maybe this should be in some other thread. New Routing? Climbing Movies? Something else? Not sure, so feel free to suggest a new location and Toby can move it.

    Wherever it belongs, here is a film for you that will give you some clue about what is behind my babbling about this amazing place I live in. With the caveat that it was told primarily from one person's point of view, and deliberately left out others'. But, even so, it is not a bad intro to my new home.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQdaDbA-wJI&t=1384s

    "Arc'teryx Presents: On The Verge"



  • @David-Harris Have not watched yet but from introductory text:

    Confronted with the decision to fight for these last ancient trees and potentially lose access or look away as the valley is stripped for timber, On The Verge is a snapshot of outdoors culture in British Columbia. The way we reconcile industries that give us access to the wilderness with the destruction they cause. The desire to protect our backyard but keep it for ourselves at the same time. The importance of these places to the people who have shaped them and been shaped by them in return.

    Maybe some discussion for Big Questions?



  • @Moose Thanks for posting this up. @David-Harris had posted it the History of Rock Climbing thread a while back and I kind of got sidetracked by other stuff. Kick ass flick! I was surprised the OP didn't get more feedback. In any case.... recommended. 🎥 👍



  • @toby Gotcha. Hadn't seen that, so thanks.



  • @Moose Yer' welcome. 🙂

    At the time we were unsure about the most appropriate category and I was waiting to see how the responses evolved: more on the management issues or more on the rock climbing side. Whichever, it deserves the visibility of a dedicated thread so I am going to merge those posts into this one so as to keep follow ups all under one roof, so to speak. And the title says it all w.r.t. searches. 👍



  • @Moose said in Powell River Area Climbing:

    Some of the routes in this video are breathtaking, but the surrounding environs would no doubt make any route similarly breathtaking. I'm liking where you moved to, even if I miss you guys being here in Seattle!

    Yes, there is a staggering amount of big granite here. Most of what you saw in the film was in the Eldred River Valley. Now, multiply that by a factor of 10, and you will be getting close to what's in our back yard.

    So, if the rock quality is that good, and the vertical scale huge, and the quantity almost unimaginable, why is the place pretty much unknown? Because most of the rock is so difficult to get to. The Eldred is the easiest, but even it is close to 2 hours, mostly on active logging roads. That means access is limited to weekends, or before 6:00 in the morning and after 6:00 at night. (And that assumes that you are already here in Powell River, which, despite being only about 65 miles from Vancouver as the crow flies, is a six-hour journey involving two ferries for humans).

    And getting to any of the other valleys with vast granite walls makes getting to the Eldred seem easy.

    Of course, you can fly to Powell River (five flights daily from Vancouver) and then charter a helicopter to get to your chosen spot, but most people want to go to established areas with all the usual amenities, not to some off-the-map wilderness that takes days to get to, and where there are no existing routes.



  • For those of you who've not watched this yet: this is some of the most bitchin' stuff I've ever seen. Picture Yosemite 1950's. Maybe 1940's. If I could still climb I'd be crashing on David's floor as soon as I could get my sorry arse up there. This stuff is sweet! Climbing like it is supposed to be! Pristine granite, no crowds, free camping, etc. before it got whored out by the profit over passion pimps.

    Be all that as it may.... the bigger issue here may well be conservation. I have worked for various US government agencies as a field biologist and saw first hand the incompetence w/wh/our forests in the US are being "managed". Always thought, for some reason, that CA was better than US in the conservation department. But I was wrong. CA may well be way way more fucked! Tragic. The rock will be there but the old growth trees are almost history. And I can see that many so called "climbers:" would even argue for logging the remainder, paved roads, etc. so they could just drive up to the crags for their weakend warrior fame and bosch in the latest and greatest fame and glory guide book story shoe horn.

    It is truly a shame that this stuff needs to be "marketed to the unwashed masses" and ruined in order to "save" it. Sigh. 😞

    Edit: My first viewing of this was on the 'puter monitor. I watched it again today on the big screen and was even more impressed at just how spectacular this area is. Go for the viewing real estate if ya' got it. 👍



  • (Also...I want me one of them Delicas with the 4X4 and steering wheel on the right. They don't sell them in the U.S., but I've always seen plenty of them in Squamish, and from visiting Canadians here in Seattle.)

    The Delica is the coolest rig out there. I want one.



  • Arc'teryx is bringing three of its sponsored climbers up here later this week to spend a few days climbing in the Eldred River Valley. Thursday through Sunday I think.

    Two of our friends have been in there for the last three months, cleaning and climbing a boatload of new multi-pitch routes, so the Arc'teryx crew will have some new stuff to play on, and maybe put up something of their own.

    Camera crew will be there, too, so there will be an update to "On the Verge" coming out probably late this summer.



  • @Scole They are super cool! I looked into them a while back, and at the time, there was some issue with owning one in the U.S. Not sure what the status is at the moment.



  • @David-Harris I'll definitely be interested in seeing that footage. Even more fun would be to be there myself. What a truly stunning and vast area!



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  • @john-bald Sweet! 📷 👍


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