Resurected from the ashes.

  • This canoe was in Isa's old barn. It came with the place and was stove up pretty bad. I forgot to get a photo of it in its resting spot. Its already washed up and in the repair stage in this shot.
    It required major surgery..
    I tried aluminum brazeing rods but no luck. requires more skill or better tools than what I had.. I just melted bigger holes in the canoe.. I went to plan B. Fiberglass. It worked great!
    Beefed up the broken ribs.
    What I thought would take a few hours took the whole day but we got her finished and in the water before I had to head home to get to work.
    IMG_5521.jpg IMG_5537.jpg
    Super stoked to finally get this done as I have no way of getting my canoe up north these days. Now we have a great boat to get to some classic cliffs near by. ๐Ÿ™‚

  • @NickG When I was guiding wilderness canoe routes, aluminum boats were a brand new thing that none of us had actually seen or paddled, and fiberglass was still in the future. All we had in the early 1960s was wood/canvas canoes.

    Which may have had their drawbacks, but they sure were easy to repair.

  • The fiberglass patch is super easy. just stinky. I had done it to my fiberglass canoe and wanted to use the same method on the aluminum rig but was sucked into trying the aluminum brazing rods by you tube.

  • how did you fix the wooden and canvas canoes?

  • Cool.

    Fiberglass resin is some nasty 'chit fer yer' lungs, fer' sure, fer' sure....

    Never had the chance to do much canoeing. Seems aluminum would be quite a bit lighter for portages and such than fiberglass?

    fwiw: It would be desirable for searches if the title of this thread contained the word "canoe". Make it a lot easier to find some months down the road, both w.r.t. RPU internal search and commercial indexing engines like Google, Bing, and DuckDuckGo. ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Make sure you have a bail bucket with you

  • it didn't leak at all ๐Ÿ™‚ I did a large fiberglass fix on my Great Canadian about 18 years ago and it's still rocking it ๐Ÿ™‚

  • @toby my intent was not to hog this thread with my canoe but have it be a place to show off your resurected gear.

  • I used to canoe the Flint and Nantahala Rivers a good bit bitd. At the Flint River, they would rent Grumman Canoes, but the more avid paddlers preferred Blue Hole Canoes and would bring their own. They were lighter and could take much more punishment than the Grumman aluminum canoes.

    The material in fiber constructed canoes or kayaks during my time on the water was not fiberglass but Royalex, a material developed by Uniroyal Rubber. Its strength came from the manufacturing process, which was bonding layers of Royalex sandwich style with a layer of ABS polymer in the middle for strength. Heat bonded the materials together, It was made in the same manner as plywood, layers across layers with a bonding agent.

    Blue Hole Canoe incorporated this into their design. It was a lighter, more durable material than cloth or wood and lighter than aluminum. It also would flex in out of it's original shape. (I wish my truck was made of it.) Most of the hull was Royalex, with side panels of ABS.

    Today Royalex is a distant memory and materials like Kevlar and other carbon fibers are used in making canoes.

    I became an owner of a Blue Hole canoe literally through an accident.
    One weekend we were going down the Flint and went through some rapids and over some falls and overturned. My precious commodities sank to the bottom of the pool so I dove down to retrieve them. No way was I going to finish the trip without them. On the bottom, trapped by swirling water was a red Blue Hole canoe folded in half with each end practically touching the other.

    The water was around 20 feet deep, but I was determined to pull that canoe up. Thankfully we were a large group of young bucks who saw it as a trophy. We worked and worked until we broke the bond of the water pressure that was forcing it downwards. Once we got a team effort going after overpowering the water pressure, we slowly pulled it to the surface. At first it looked like a lot of work for nothing but we wanted to get it away from the river, not thinking of salvaging the canoe but keeping the river clean.

    Once we bailed most of the water out it, it literally snapped back to its original form. The gunnels and thwarts were mangled and one seat was bent beyond repair. It didn't leak at all.

    We tied it to the back of our canoe and cruised back to the starting point. We were told by the Flint River Outfitters that about two weeks prior some not so experienced paddlers lost the canoe, freaked out and told the Flint Outfitters that anyone who could get the boat up could have it.

    I took it home, ordered the gunnels, thwarts and one seat. I took a rivet gun and popped them right back in the original holes.

    If you looked real hard you could see a slight line in the red color where it folded in half.

    I used that canoe for years after that, until moving out West. I think I sold it for more than the MSR for the year model it was.

    I looked for pictures of the retrieval and resurrection but my brothers
    are the photographers in the family. One said he would send some but I am not going to hold my breath.

    Nick, you could have cut a piece of aluminum and brazed the patch over that hole, especially if you had a but from my experience welding and brazing you would never finish filling that hole. I have a Lincoln TIG/MIG combo wire welder but am losing my touch due to lack of use. A necessity around any shop or farm.

  • @NickG
    Suggested methods: a match or let someone who makes them for historical purposes do it. That craft goes back to the days of fur traders and colonial bateaux.

  • @NickG Ahh, ha... click... duh... ๐Ÿ•

    Cool, cool, cool! ๐Ÿ•ถ ๐Ÿ‘

  • I patched an old Hollowfor kayak with multiple laminations of duct tape and barge cement, The patch lasted for years until I finally cut the boat into pieces with a skillsaw so that it could never be used again. The patch was still good.

  • @Scole
    Barge cement - isnโ€™t that the flexible glue most climbers coated their EBโ€™s with and glued โ€œwear parchesโ€ on with?

    Seems like sole got much more wear than the uppers so the Patches and barge cement disappeared over time.

  • @Scole said in Resurected from the ashes.:

    I patched an old Hollowfor kayak with multiple laminations of duct tape and barge cement, The patch lasted for years until I finally cut the boat into pieces with a skillsaw so that it could never be used again. The patch was still good.

  • Barge cement is a heat sensitive cobbler's glue that works great for fixing lots of stuff. Its right up there with duct tape, and when you combine the two they are indestructible

  • My bench grinder was a $5.00 yard sale purchase. it started very slow when i first plugged it in. Flip it on and it would hum for awhile and very slowly start spinning. I mounted it on my bench and used it enough that it got happy and works perfectly now. It was simply feeling neglected. I have been useing it regularly for close to a decade now ๐Ÿ™‚

  • @Scole
    Well this is prove my memory works sometimes. I thought the name was familiar, but didnโ€™t know or remember it was Cobblers cement. Thanks. I have a few pair of boots I could get some more use from with the correct material, Liquid Nail didnโ€™t hold up.

    Don Reid was my climbing mentor in my first season in Yosemite, 1978 and all others for that matter.

    He took me to the Mountaineering School, made sure I got a pair of EBโ€™s that pinched my toes, and then took me to his tent and immediately cut some patches, pulled out the Barge Cement and went to work. Being the novice climber I was, I stood there in total dismay at what he was doing to my new gear.

    I think they sold Barge cement at the YPCC store in Curry Village.

  • @NickG

    Sounds like a bargain, someone must have thought the motor brushes were gone, when they were just dusty.

  • That bench grinder is running stronger than ever! and getting a steady workout. Bought a truck for $2,500.00 the cab is decent, frame looks decent. bed was toast. tearing it off and building a pressure treated bed would be time consuming and expensive. likly about $500.00 in material. 14 hrs of cheap and dirty body work and almost finished. when I am done I will have a brand new winter truck ๐Ÿ™‚

  • @NickG Good work.

    With your construction and mechanical skills, you'd make a fortune here. Minimum six-month wait for even the smallest renovation. One of the local climber/construction guys is booked over 12 months out.

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