New routing

  • @David-Harris I do have a tiny house on wheels with solar power 🙂 and a new ultra light rotary hammer 🙂

  • good weekend of small rock, lots of vegetation and FA's.
    me on the FA of Vista Grande . 8+???
    There really is a great view of the white mountains from the top of this crag.
    then Isa did a variation link between Buena Vista and Vista Grande that avoids dealing with the overhang.
    so we called it Vista de Pollo . the sub compact ultra light rotary hammer works well. Certainly not as fast as my 36v bosch but much, much lighter.

  • Our new routing today was horizontal, rather than vertical.

    Backstory is that while our little city is surrounded by rock that makes Yosemite look small, it's not easy to get to. The Eldred River Valley, with the equivalent of 5 Squamish Chiefs, is just 25 miles away. The Daniels River Valley, with walls up to almost 5,000 ft, is only 35 miles away.

    But while you can get to the Eldred in about two hours on bad roads (weekends only or you'll die being hit by a logging truck), the Daniels is a full two days by water and trail.

    There are a few decent small climbing areas more accessible, but...

    So finding good rock 2 minutes from our house... What can I say?

    Okay, it's not El Cap. But in a little local park (that we can walk to in 15 minutes) Mari discovered a beautiful little crag that offers a 75-foot bouldering traverse. We scrubbed it today.

    Given the distance to roped climbing, plus the sudden outbreak of teenage boulderers following the opening of our little local gym a year ago, I expect that this will soon become the most frequented piece of rock on the entire peninsula within a couple of months.

    Probably hard to tell much from the photo, but it's impeccable rock, and goes on and on and on.


  • Scrubbing is done, and climbing has begun.

    Traverse is now 100 ft (with vast scope for extension) and Mari and I have dropped our wirebrushes and put on our sticky rubber boots to play on it. There are sections too hard for either of us, but when the kids arrive it will all go.

    Today I took our young friend Erica up for a look. I think her expression in these two photos tells the story...



  • @David-Harris Surely there is a "The Color Purple" FA in the lurking, eh?

    Rock on. 🎸

  • Auto Castigo.jpg

    This is my latest. Climbed it June 20, the day before my 62nd birthday.

  • details ? looks good 🙂

  • @Scole said in New routing:

    Climbed it June 20, the day before my 62nd birthday.

    Oh, you young people and your crazy hobbies.

  • Its a nice 5.11a finger crack in the back of a flare on Columnar Basalt. The route is just left of my route Disiplina Catholica, so I stuck with the theme. The area is El Escalon in Jalisco, Mexico, and has some excellent crack climbs.

  • @Scole Nice! 👍

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