Winter Climbing

  • @NickG Would be cool to have a landscape version of the leaving the cave shot. 📷

    Looks like quite the awesome viewscape. 👍

  • @toby If thats the one of me starting the crux pitch of Crazy Diamond a few weeks ago that's just a shot from Tims phone..
    Its probobly all he got?

  • @NickG So I presumed. But I figure that is not the last time you climb that route. Maybe next year, eh?

  • havent been on it in five or six years. it's a sandbag 😉 but you never know...

  • Its been crazy warm and a bit of rain but the season would just not seem right without a trip to the north pole. I suspected that last nights cool down would dry the ice up if there was any but i was not too optimistic on the very long drive.
    IMG_9011.jpg I know there are mountains in there somewhere?
    Finally I arrive at the top of the pass and low and behold Parasol Gully is looking pretty good. It even has some Parasols at the top.
    even looks kind of wintery... First section is good ice. a fair bit of water running under it but it seems stable enough.
    then a bit of rotten snow and some more ice with a water dam at the top of it.. finally the good part.
    the top out was a bit interesting with the parasols and a few deep water grooves running thorough the whole thing.
    snowpack was lower than I have ever seen it but still enough to butt slide the decent gully 🙂
    the sun burned through an I had a glimpse of the mountains on the way home
    had to go for rip at my favorite pee spot.

  • I know it's officially spring but it felt like winter up on the rock pile. Absolutely bullet proof up there. I decided to drive a different way which was a short cut. It seemed to be takeing a rather long time and then I saw the welcome to Maine sign. Oops.. Pulled a u turn and went looking for the missed turn.. Found it.


    Finally left the parking lot a bit after 11 am...
    a brisk up hill hike and a view of things to come.


    I had not done a route up here in winter conditions since 1987 so it was a bit of a head game. My last two successful climbs up here both ended the day with rescues. one when my partner fell off while soloing Odels Gully and then the next year when we carried a very serious injury out of Central after climbing North. My goal was Pinnacle gully but there were two parties in it. The back up Plan was Odels.


    As soon as I started up the gully proper the PTSD kicked in.. The last time I tried this with Isa 21 or so years ago the winds were gusting to 165mph so we bailed. The real reason we bailed that day was not the wind. It was the fact that my previous trip up this thing in 1986 my partner took a monster unroped fall from above the ice bulges. Temps were in the teens and the wind was not bad today. A mild 55mph.. I had forgotten what a calf burner these climbs are...


    The ice was absolutely bullet proof. I seem to remember my old Simond Chakals and 60cm Chiounard ax penetrating this stuff quite a bit better than my modern X dreams.. I had a 60m tag line in my pack and 4 ice screws just in case something broke weather it be a crampon or my mind. It still felt pretty darn committing. 30m raps don't get you very far up here. the ice at the bulge was super scary. Completely hollow, detached from the rock and sounding and feeling horrible... Too much sun on it the last few weeks.. I was gripped enough I never took my usual ice tool photo.. near the top I felt a touch of altitude at only 6k ft.. makes me worry a bit about my health? The alpine garden was scoured from snow as usual.


    It was not hard to stay upright today with only 55mph wind gusts. It gets sporty up here when they are topping 90..
    Tuckerman ravine. The big mountain skiing mecca of the North East.


    I am so glad I was not skiing today. these folks decided it was a bit too sporty/ icy and chose the same descent route that I did.


    Scoured clean of snow negotiating all these rocks sucked.. Finally down below tree line the going gets reasonable. Naturally I forgot my micro spikes.... Ran into these young bucks just starting the trek up to the lean toos. A good reminder on why I try to do my mountain adventures CTC 😉



    It's rather wild to think that I once looked young and innocent like that..
    As I reached the parking lot the life flight chopper was just lifting off. an inevitable result of all those folks (three full parking lots) playing on the mountain on a day when a single laps in concentration could easily lead to a thousand ft fall...

  • bump to see if this works with the new format?

  • dosen't seem to? i thought a bump would put a thread on the top? perhaps I did it mid change??

  • @NickG Naw, I just flipped a switch on the default home page sort algorithm. It has been "Categories" for some while - which seems like most catnip for the search engines. Before that we tried "Recent". Now rockin' "Tops" - wh/puts top rated threads at the top of view. I'd never tried this 'un before and found interesting. Users are always welcome to over ride site generated defaults in their User Settings. I heartell some folks even set theirs for "Unread" for the ultimate in hit and run fresh post checks.

    For e.g.; pilot yer' browser thusly:

    Then chooser yer' favorite poison:




    Or... whichever trips yer' trigger, eh? 👍

    Don't forget to save your changes, eh? 😉


  • most recent is easiest to keep track of..

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