Winter Climbing



  • @NickG said in Winter climbing:

    and had my fix. 3 naked threads to get down with my 60m 6mm tag.

    Never used a naked thread. Plenty of V-threads, but had never even heard of a naked rope thread until it came up here.

    Any thoughts of the trade-off between leaving a couple of dollars worth of cord vs the possibility of your rope freezing in place?



  • Its all the rage these days and the climbing police over on MP will give you hell for leaving cord.. I kind of prefer to make good threads and have them in place as fixed anchors for most of the season but when rapping with a single tag I often miss the fixed threads so will go naked. also great move if you run out of cord. as far as getting your rope frozen in it can happen even without nekkid. If the ice is wet and its cold out, especially if the sun just went down things freeze up super fast. You need to rappel fast and the 2nd person down must check to make Shure the ropes are still moving. I won't do a naked thread in those conditions. A few weeks ago the ropes almost froze because the ice was wet but I was so heated up from climbing that I thought it was above freezeing when it was actually below freezing.. I had to clip into the end of the rope and jump really hard to get them free. It was a good reminder. If the ice is cold and dry its super safe.



  • Just got new tools. same ones I have been using. X dreams. this was my 6th season on them and I was not feeling good about it. Really should replace tools every 3 seasons if you are serious climber. Its all or nothing if the head pops off... Happened to my friend Alden on a WI6 pitch in Alberta. Fortunately it was in the days of leashes so when the head broke off his Grivel machine he was left hanging from the leash.. somehow able to get his spare tool out and finish the pitch...



  • @NickG said in Winter climbing:

    Really should replace tools every 3 seasons if you are serious climber.

    So, if anything around here in the so-called Great White North actually froze, you're saying I shouldn't use my 30-year-old Black Prophets?



  • they are likely fine. they made them tougher back then.. I still use my old blue chiounard ax now and then I just do so much soloing and leading at my limit I should probably stick to relatively new tools instead of old beat up new tools. ..



  • @NickG Indoubitably.....



  • Wintery mix day from work. Mostly worked on trying to get my domain names restored and my website and email back up... then I scooted out to a nice 40ft tall road cut not far from home. tall enough I starting thinking that I should maybe wear a swami and carry a few screws and a tag.. Its tall enough and steep enough that I am not certain I could one hop top out or maybe even one hop down climb successfully if a crampon popped off or broke...
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    it was sloppy heavy shit and I got stuck at the top of the hill just 20ft shy of the cabin door. had to beat it pretty hard to get turned around and stuffed into my emergency parking spot out of the way of plowing. IMG_3715.jpg
    By the time I had the old beast filled with various vital fluids, fired up and plowed I was pretty beat. went to bring the van the rest of the way home and zero heat. No blower motor or switch? I beat her pretty hard getting up the hill and then slideing backwards through the saplings. maybe I knocked a wire loose?? deal with it in the am but it really sucks being stranded on a good climbing weekend.... had a partner lined up and everything. going to be -12 f tomorrow. I am not going anywhere serious with no defroster fan...



  • @NickG said in Winter climbing:

    but it really sucks being stranded on a good climbing weekend.... had a partner lined up and everything. going to be -12 f tomorrow. I am not going anywhere serious with no defroster fan...

    On the other hand, you have a warm home, a job, and don't have to choose between fixing your vehicle and feeding your children.

    Still, first-world problem or not, I sympathize.



  • totally a first worldproblem. Missed my Friday night music jam because of car trouble...



  • Drove an hour to Holts. Windshield stayed clear but I froze my ars off.
    Climbed the pillar on the left. it went much harder than it looks.
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    Did it in two just to get my partner and the rope out from under that hanger and my glasses were completely fogged up from being over dressed.
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    that little pillar at the top was steep and thin. It looked wide but was really a thin curtain.
    then Tim got to lead a nice 3.
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  • In some places winter climbing doesn’t have to be in winter
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  • Those are some nasty looking screws! Brings back nightmares just looking at them. No wonder your not Keen on ice climbing πŸ˜‰



  • Skinned to the top of Mt Hoar which gave us a really nice view of the big side of lake Willoughby
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    lots of fresh Pow.
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    Its been a few years of Nordic and AT but Isa remembers how to telle. πŸ™‚
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    Pleasantly tuckered out I try to take it easy the rest of the evening. Isa is still resting her shoulder so I am meeting Pete at the lake in the morning. Pete is young and strong.
    Its way colder than I had expected and the ice is as dry and brittle as it gets. We get skunked from our goal of Called On account of Raines by a strong looking team from NH that is packed and ready just as we are pulling into the parking spot. We decide on the Right side of The Last Gentleman. We have both done the left variation a bunch of times but though the right side shares the same Grade 5 it is much steeper and harder than the regular line. I lead a long pitch that starts with thin hollow snice that gradually thickens and steepens to vertical. several times my picks bounce off of rock under thin snice.. Feet were cold and never got the feeling into my left hand until I was finished making belay and had Pete about half way up the pitch. Fingers are still tingling. Pete hikes the brutally steep 2nd pitch in great style.
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    I lead a relatively mellow pitch to get to the final business. Though incredibly exposed with several nice short steep sections its easy 4
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    Pete hikes the final steep pillars to a very uncomfortable hanging station in the cedars.
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    and its time to go home.
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    Pleasantly worked πŸ™‚



  • @NickG Lucky you.
    Looks like you got your money's worth today.



  • Got out sat on my way to Isa's. Super busy at the Lake.
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    someone from Oregon has my exact same sprinter. Chick On Ice from the old Taco stand days was leading Glass Menageri a really fun 5 that Isa and I did on New Years Eve this year.
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    I started up Float Like A Butterfly land Like A Tomatoe WI4 but then had to wait for a the party that was up there to rappel. then some goober started up the climb while I was up on the head wall 70m off the deck with the rope in my pack. looked down and saw a climber under me and it kind of blew my pscye.. fired in a screw and bailed..
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    It sucks being a weekend warrior. That route is the kind of stuff I want to be alone on when soloing.. It was still a really fun 70m of climbing. Couldn't help myself. had to drive out on the lake just once to see what the Ice drinkers gig is all about.
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  • @NickG Nice to live where winter lasts longer than a few days.

    Here in the great white north I spent the day working on getting the garden plots ready for planting -- which is just around the corner.

    Many of the local cliffs have been dry and sunny in the last couple of weeks, so rock season has begun. (Although it will go into limbo during the next few days of rain.)

    Here's a shot from a couple of days ago -- seacliff bouldering -- the ocean is about 1 foot below the rocks at the bottom of the photo. The sun had gone behind a thin cloud layer and a bit of breeze had sprung up, so we had to get something on over the T-shirts, but it was still a fine day.

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  • Cool.We are having a bad 3 day thaw but winter is coming back for the weekend..



  • Speaking of winter "not-climbing," it hit 62 f. here on Sat. & yesterday I plucked our first asparagus stalk of 2020. There are more on the way, but nights in the low 20's f. for the next few, are making me cover them.

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  • @FritzRay You're doing this deliberately, right?

    Not content with making me insanely jealous of your (Heidi's??) asparagus garden when we were on ST, you have to bring it here, too? That's just mean.



  • @David-Harris? Do you have blueberry bushes? If not, I bet you can grow them & share the fact here. I love blueberries, but our arid & hot climate kills the bushes every time I've tried growing them.

    I am dreaming of soon picking more asparagus than we can eat.

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