History of Rock Climbing

  • @FritzRay Pretty much what I thought.

    That is, you could make the case that he is right, but in the real world he's wrong. Sure, the base-to-summit elevation of Mt. Whitney (and probably some other peaks in the Sierras) is well over 7,000 ft., but it's hardly a sheer granite face. Likewise, the elevation from the surface of the Kings River to the top of a nearby peak might be 8,000 feet, but it's not really what we think of when we hear the word canyon.

    Not to say that those areas are dull and boring, or that the book is crap, just that he's being a bit dishonest with his readers.

  • @David-Harris said in History of Rock Climbing:

    Not to say that those areas are dull and boring, or that the book is crap, just that he's being a bit dishonest with his readers.

    He is not using the same criteria you are. With my river running background, including Hell's Canyon, I never thought it was 7.900 ft. deep, but the facts you disagree with on elevation differences in California, are widely accepted. As a historian, he uses what he finds, hopefully with some fact-checking.

  • I came accross this very cool blog about clean climbing at the gunks. great read!

    The ‘Gunks of Yore: The Clean Climbing Revolution (1966-1974)

  • Dirtbag Climbers

    1. The Original Dirtbag - Fred Beckey I'd like to score the full movie. Anyone seen it?

    2. A Regular Dirtbag - Alf Randell, one example. Our own Scott Cole may be another, except he works! 😉

    3. Wannabe Dirtbags: Claim to be the BIGGEST climbing dirtbag in Joshua Tree. Maybe, boys, but you got to pay a few more dues to claim that moniker?

    4. Poser Marketroid Dirtbags?? Dunno, everyone seems to want to claim this schtick modern times. Looks like these guys, or at least their store's domain, has been around since 2013.

    Interesting to see how this term has evolved into a badge of honor even outside the climbing community.

  • Of course, Fred Beckey spent his well-lived years chasing both first ascents & women.

    Fred Becky.jpg

  • Did any of you actually know Fred?

    The old saying is "speak no ill of the dead" so I'll keep my mouth shut.

  • @David-Harris Never met him. Just respect "the legend". And would like to watch the full movie Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey one of these days. 🎥

    Ahh, yes, the clip also features a brief vignette by out own Jim Donini. Maybe he'll pop in and share some climbing history?

  • I had a copy of the DVD. gave it to a friend in Colorado who's friends were some of the youngsters inn the film. fred came off as a total self centered prick in the movie but certainly an interesting and worthwhile character. Movie was very interesting.

  • @David-Harris I knew Fred on and off over many years. Mostly just to stop and chat with him. We did boulder together at Jenny Lake a couple of times. I can recall a no-hands problem we did. Fred had good foot work and balance. I last saw him at the AAC dinner in 1985 (I think). He and Yvon were talking about some climb in Canada and when he saw me he said, "Oh yeah, the boulder guy!"

    Hey, is that praise form the Master? Don't knock it! 😎

  • I knew Fred for years. We climbed in Zion (rather unenergetically) and Snow Canyon (same).

    I last saw him standing by a stunning Albert Beirstadt (love the Hudson River School) in the Park Avenue duplex of David Koch.

    They're both gone now.

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