How Often Do You Climb Indoors?
Thanks for that post, toby! Very cool to hear some of that background!
You're right, indoor climbing has changed the game. Then again, so did sport climbing at one time.
Personally, I love adventure, route-finding and being outside. After all, our company's name is Acopa Outdoors. Still, we love climbing in all its forms and appreciate the fact that indoor climbing has made it possible for millions of kids to try climbing -kids whose parents would never have allowed them to go hang on the side of some cliff, out in the wilderness, but have no problem dropping them off at the gym for a couple of hours of what they now regard as a safe, fun and hip workout.
Now you've got parkour and competitions such as the American Ninja Warrior that have given birth to gyms where people practice similar stunts around foam-covered walls and under careful supervision from attentive spotters. Is it a little bit contrived? Maybe. Does it look like fun? I'd say it does!
I think it's a yin-yang thing that's been going on since at least the days of Harding vs Robbins. One side of climbing doesn't take itself too seriously and is essentially represented by the idea that the only rules are don't die and have fun. The other side regards climbing outdoors as a mystical, spiritual experience that is all about bringing yourself up to a challenge rather than bringing the challenge down to you.
I think both are like two sides of the same coin. They need each other to balance each other out. The back and forth tug of war between them keeps climbing moving forward.
And please keep those replies coming y'all, your opinion matters!
The last couple of months I have not been able to climb outside, but the gym is a five minute walk away. I love climbing outside, for all the reasons ACOPA listed above, but being able to stay fit is important . That being said, its difficult to get super psyched about the new blue V-4, in comparison to an un-climbed splitter, or a classic multi-pitch line.
Indubitably. What I was alluding to as well. Wish we could get Steve in here to sketch in some of the blanks w.r.t. the evolution of the climbing gym scene. Alas, their F1 did not inherit the craggin' bug. So the family got into wind surfing pretty big time. Still wish I could entice him to join up at RPU. Wonder what it's gonna take, eh? Hmm.....
Climbing gyms have definitely been a factor in the increase in free climbing grades. Prior to gym climbing, training was mostly pull ups and beers.
I spent a lot of time at Teton Rock Gym when I lived in Wyoming. Winters are long in Wyoming and being able to train during the week allowed me to climb much harder in the Sinks on the weekends.
My introduction to the concept was at the very beginning: Peter Mayfield had the idea for City Rock, and was looking for investors. I showed the prospectus to a client of mine, a financial wizzard. He looked at it for a few minutes and said: "it's under funded, it will never fly". Thirty years down the road there are climbing gyms everywhere. Hell, there is even a gym in El Chalten!
But I grok what ye' be layin' down. I recollect payin' homage to the "100/1000 Rule" ever since this hottie I met up with 'round some roadside crags up Jackson Hole neck of the woods apprised me that the 1000 part, at least, was requisite for her lovers.
I was well on my way towards fulfilling such anyways, as most climbers were. I'd just never bothered to quantify it. So, I found myself challenged and incentivized to perform thusly.
Once upon a time, way, way, bitd, there was a pine tree. Not just any pine tree but a very special pine tree: A Pinus monophylla, a.k.a. Pinyon Pine, located in Hidden Valley Campground, 'round out back a bit, 'twixt the middle and back loops. From which... hung... a steel bar of ooooh, la, la, oh so nicely proportioned diameter wrapped w/climber's tape suspended by 1" nylon mil-spec webbing at just perfect pull up bar height. Yep. That old tree saw a lot of work outs. Fer' decades of HVC Bachar wannabees. Until it got cut down by the powers that be. Sad.
Anyways, my "rule" was that every time I walked past it was to crank off ten pull ups, wh/was considerable frequency since I "lived in then Site 21". No matter how tired, nor what else I'd climbed. Until I had notched my gun w/at least one hundred. Also provided a good excuse to chat up the neighbors, especially if they be bettys.... Perhaps a minor invasion of the occupant's space but, it was just one of those known conditions that went along w/camping in that site.
Similarly on the sit up front. Need strong abs for over hangin' 'chit, eh? Well, we all know that certain concrete picnic tables are pretty stout and dandy anchors fer' such activities, facilitatin' dippin' back a fair bit to boot. No foot holding partners required. So, knock off a hundred of those at a crack, until ye' hit yer' daily one thousand, eh? Never came close to six pac abs. Nor four, for that matter. Did do some routes involving overhangs and roofs from time to time though.
Truthfully, while almost always making my 100 pull ups, such cannot be said for the 1000 sit up side of the deal. Although I certainly did bunches 'o 'em. Maybe just too high to keep count fer the weak and enfeebled climber mind, eh? Oh well.
The Games Climbers Play, eh?
"Well... I dunno 'bout the beers. Ye' being so high falutin' affluent mountain guide and all... We was poor!"
There is nobody poorer than an old school Mountain Guide. Combine that with a need for 10,000 calories a day to keep going, and you have a recipe for poverty. That's where the beer comes in, lots of calories.
I lived in the YOSAR site for many years. I would climb out of my tent in the morning and do 100 pull ups before breakfast. Bachar ladders, slack chain and 500 pull ups a day was my routine. I finally learned about complimentary workouts when I started sub-luxating my shoulders constantly. I threw a 100 dips a day into the workout and haven't had a shoulder problem in 40 years.
SmoknDuck last edited by SmoknDuck
500 pull ups a day was my routine.
Not buying it at all
Wait.... What games were we playing again? I'm so confused. Hate it when that happens!! Damn.
Oh, snap... Right. Okay. Uhhmm..... In that case...
I'll see yer' 500 and raise ye' a 'Chaefer, eh?
Agreed. Gyms have been a big part of raising the grade bar, so to speak. New grades are probably first sent in gyms, where you can safely practice a single move over and over again. I think we are going to see some incredible things in the next decade or so... Not that we haven't seen some incredible things recently, mind you.
And when did pull ups and beer stop being considered good training for climbing? :shocked:
Had a chance to climb in Tuolmne with Mike Pope this week. What a treat that was!
On our way in to the Valley, the Acopa crew, consisting of my partner Sergio and I, were looking for a short, 5.fun route to do. Mr. Pope was kind enough to lead a few routes on Low-Profile Dome.
What a class act he is!
This is me following on the Golfer's Route, (2 pitches, 5.7 YDS).