Reasonable Park Climbing Rules

  • @manmountain When I started visiting the Tetons in the mid 1950s solo climbing was prohibited. It was not a popular activity, but those of us who indulged would sneak out onto the rocks, hoping to avoid climbing rangers. I recall coming off Baxter's Pinnacle after a solo of the north face route and being greeted by a party consisting of two climbing rangers and a couple of guides. There were a few moments of awkward silence, then the conversation shifted and I never heard anything more about my transgression. Years later the restriction vanished from park regulations.

  • Reasonable my ass.

    A few fixed anchors can allow classic bitchin new routes.

    (goddam spellcheck tried to change bitchin to bitcoin!)

  • (For those not into downloading PDF's)

    Colorado National Monument Climbing Regulations

    National Monument

    National Park Service
    Department of the Interior
    Fruita, CO 81521

    • The following area and exposures are closed to recreational rock climbing

      • Any exposure above any tunnel portal, aboriginal rock art site, the Balanced Rock in Fruita Canyon, and Mushroom Rock below the northwestern rim of Monument Mesa near the mouth of Monument Canyon.

      • Any area that has the potential to disturb naturally occurring wildlife activity, such as, but not limited to: feeding, mating, or nesting activities.

      • Any climbing activity in an area that has the potential to damage an archeological site, historic structure, or paleontological resource is prohibited.

    • No new permanent climbing hardware may be installed in any fixed location. If an existing bolt or
      other hardware item is unsafe, it may be replaced following consultation with park staff. This will
      limit all climbing to existing routes or new routes not requiring placement of fixed anchors.

    • The use of power tools to facilitate the installation of rock climbing hardware or for any other
      purpose is prohibited.

    • Climbing anchors and/or protection points may not be placed with the use of a hammer except to
      replace belay an rappel anchors and bolts on existing routes or for emergency self rescue.

    • The use of permanent anchor fixtures and hardware shall be installed or used for the protection of
      climbers on established climbing routes only, and only where such hardware devices now exist.

    • Software (webbing, accessory cord, etc.) that is left in place must match the rock surface in color.

    • The installation or use of permanent anchor fixtures and hardware must be brown or black.

    • Fixed ropes should not be left in place for more than 24 hours. Fixed ropes left in place longer than
      24 hours shall be considered abandoned property and will be removed.

    • The physical altering of rock faces — such as chiseling new holds — is prohibited.

    • The intentional removal of lichen or plants from rocks is prohibited.

    • Camping on the summit of Independence Monument is prohibited.

    Climbing Regulations



    Toby's Take

    This bit here pretty much precludes any access (emphasis added):

    "Any area that has the potential to disturb naturally occurring wildlife activity, such as, but not limited to: feeding, mating, or nesting activities."

    The argument can surely be made that the mere presence of anyone and most anything human, including overhead air traffic, has the potential do disturb wildlife. So, nope, totally unreasonable. How well do you think such would go over with the "regular" tourist types, eh?

    Sooo.... poorly worded regulation leaves potentially very subjective interpretation up to the LEO's. But hey, that's Our America!

  • Layton and I did our first desert climbs in CNM (the same 2 climbs!).

    But even back in '76 there were problems with the rangers.

    The Man just doesn't like seeing people go places in his turf where he can't; rubs his nose in his own inadequacies.

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